Hello New York
We continue our journey.
We, meaning the winegrowers of Crozes-Hermitage, one of the Northern Rhône Valley growths. We began this journey a long time ago, although it is probably more accurate to call it a round trip because as winegrowers we struggle to stay away from our vineyards for long. Along our journey, we have been able to meet sommeliers, wine merchants and chefs who make each city unique. With them, we have visited Paris, Brussels, London, Berlin, Stockholm, Copenhagen, Amsterdam, Oslo and Geneva. Our journey now takes us to New York where we have found friends who, like us, have a taste for good wine and the same values of friendship and sharing that we cherish. We hope that it will take you on a journey too.
Yann Chave and Jacques Grange, co-chairs of AOP Crozes-Hermitage
Syrah Connection
The wine consumer is shifting in New York. Patrons are looking for unique, exciting wines with interesting stories behind, while also becoming more open to an influx of newer styles. “People are very curious. They want to know if it’s women or men-owned, sustainable, background… Guests are interested and open minded. Burgundy and Bordeaux are still buzz words for sure, but the Rhône Valley seems to almost be perceived as a secret menu item. When we suggest it, guests’ ears perk up and they’re usually all in”, says Amy Racine, beverage director at NY-based JF Restaurants. Syrah is one of these styles, an old world wine that has been taking on a new world spin as of late, appealing to new drinkers while re-introducing itself to older ones. This has allowed wines from Crozes-Hermitage to be both a mainstay as well as a new experience among sippers in the region.
FOOD DARLING
“The palate for red wines has moved from heavy, extracted fruit bombs to medium bodied, tart fruit, and a desire for earthiness,” says Amy Racine which offers the wines of Maxime Graillot and Pierre Gaillard in Crozes-Hermitage.
“Syrah and the wines of Crozes-Hermitage are among the first wines we suggest to clients looking for provide value, quality and still remain in the conversation of wines that come from terroir with history and significance,” says Nicolas Corrao, beverage director of Fasano New York who refers wines from Domaine du Colombier and M.Chapoutier.
“Every time I have a Crozes-Hermitage in the shop, it sells out fast. People in New York are especially very fond of the Syrah," Jessica Green, certified sommelier and owner of Sayville, NY-based Down The Rabbit Hole Wine Boutique.
Article : Emily Cappiello
Illustration : Louise Laborie
Yannick Benjamin
Best Sommelier/Wine Director of the Year 2021, Yannick Benjamin is New York City-based sommelier at Contento and Beaupierre Wines owner. He’s also one of the co-founders of Wheeling Forward, a non-profit that helps people with disabilities.
Opening Beaupierre Wines in the heart of Hell’s Kitchen wasn’t a premeditated thought for superstar wine director, Yannick Benjamin. After a few inquiries, the rest was history–and Beaupierre Wines was born. Benjamin’s approach to stocking the shelves is personal and inspired by French wine shop culture: small, but curated, with an expert’s advice on every bottle.
Tell us about the Crozes-Hermitage you stock?
I keep at least two selections stocked to represent the diversity of the region, different styles, and that it can speak to very different customers.
For you, what does Crozes-Hermitage represent?
Have you been? No?! I was just there earlier this year–it’s remarkable to see the beauty of the region. There are some really great wines in Crozes-Hermitage, and American consumers can find incredible value in them. That’s a deal for sure.
How can we make French wines more accessible to Americans?
I think we’re in a better place than we were a few years ago, but we do need more educators and more ambassadors. For me, the missing link is the one with cuisine–take a look at Italy, as an example. There are Italian restaurants in every city across the United States and they all have exclusively Italian wine lists. France hasn’t yet had that movement and I think that link with gastronomy would really change things in terms of the American perception of French wine. We’re seeing a renaissance of modern French cuisine here in New York City, so I’m hopeful that it will spread to the rest of the country.
Article : Katie Melchior
Photos : Lipyanskiy, Katie Melchior
Pascaline Lepeltier
After wetting the whistle of New York patrons at Rouge Tomate then Racines NY, the French sommelier now does the honours at Chambers, in the far South of Manhattan.
You have lived in New York for nearly 15 years. How do you view interest in Crozes-Hermitage wines?
There is no denying that it is increasing. It is an on-trend appellation among the general public, particularly because Syrah is now on tables everywhere. New Yorkers are very open-minded, always ready to discover something new– they have learnt to get to know Crozes-Hermitage. And the appellation’s wines have a major advantage–their prices are still reasonable, which is by no means insignificant at the moment.
Who are the great Rhone wine specialists in New York today?
You cannot not mention Daniel Johnnes, a former sommelier who worked for the leading chef Daniel Boulud. He was the one who launched La Tablée New York, an event which celebrates Rhone Valley wines once a year, both in partner restaurants and at a tasting where the public can meet winegrowers.
Who drinks Crozes-Hermitage wines in New York?
Obviously there are the people from tech and finance, who are very active in the New York microcosm, but there are also much less affluent wine enthusiasts. At Chambers, I often look for listings in appellations which, just like Crozes-Hermitage, allow me to iron out any incoherencies in pricing.
Article : Élodie Louchez
Photos : Andrew French
PAIRING
The magazine’s New York contributors have each designed a pairing between a speciality of the city and a Crozes-Hermitage wine. Be sure to indulge in this selection which has been captured on camera by Parisian photographer Sandra Mahut.
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Héritiers Gambert, Cave de Tain & chicken and waffles inspired by Clinton St Baking Co
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Rouge, Domaine des Combat & Steak burger inspired by 5 Napkins Burge
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Les Meysonniers, M. Chapouti lobster roll inspired by Luke's Lobster
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Cuvée Christophe, Domaine des Remizières & pastrami sandwich inspired by Katz's Deli
Alexia Duchêne
A semi-finalist in season 10 of Top Chef France at age 23, Alexia Duchêne has now realised her American dream of opening a restaurant in Brooklyn. Now, the chef with a globe-trotting appetite aspires to new projects.
Tell us about your New York restaurant plans…
I want to open a top French restaurant, in its most noble form. I haven’t done the menu yet but I can imagine delving into a repertoire of iconic French recipes, whilst also adding a New York touch to stay in step with American palates.
How about the wine list?
French wines and nothing but! A carefully curated selection of top names and boutique producers. So Crozes-Hermitage will be well represented–whites to serve with fish in a white butter sauce or veal, reds with concentrated sauces for duck à l’orange or roast lamb. The advantage of Crozes-Hermitage is that the choice is very varied with infinite possibilities for both whites and reds.
How do New Yorkers feel about French wines?
They love French wines, provided they remain understandable and intelligible. That’s why front-of-house work is essential to offer them support and advice. With our sommelier, we have worked hard to educate people about vineyard sites, grape varieties and blends. Americans are very receptive to the stories behind the wines, the background of the winegrower, the ethos of the producer, male or female…
Photos : Ronan Le May
Crozes Lovers from NY
Beloved for its youthful drinkability and impeccable quality, it’s no surprise that New York-based wine retailers and sommeliers often reach for wines from Crozes-Hermitage.
“Crozes-Hermitage offers both terrific value and wines with immediate drinking pleasure.” “I like stocking Crozes- Hermitage on the shelf because the wines tend to be at a slightly lower price point,” says Liz Nicholson, owner of Frankly Wines and Della’s Wine Bar. At Waverly Inn, wine director Jeff Harding agrees. “I always include Crozes-Hermitage on my list because it’s easy to understand as a single-varietal wine,” he says. Harding also states that he always has a Crozes-Hermitage Blanc on his list at all times, too, as he finds these wines to offer a similar sweet spot between Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay.
Impeccable Value
“At the shop, we always recommend seeking out a top producer’s entry-level wine, so as to get a sense of the winemaker’s style,” says Pimpinelli. “In the Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage is often the perfect choice for anyone looking to get into a particular estate, as well as classic French Syrah in general.” Harding also finds that wines from Crozes-Hermitage are “friendlier” than those from other appellations for consumers not so familiar with the Northern Rhône or Syrah. “They are probably the best value in the Northern Rhône!” Nicholson exclaims.
Wine to Drink Now
Pimpinelli reveals that the majority of Crozes-Hermitage wines can be drunk young—which is generally how most consumers are enjoying them. “Not every wine can or needs to be cellared, but the top examples can really shine after a bit of time,” she explains. As for how she enjoys them, Pimpinelli states that she can’t think of as many “food wines” that are as versatile or accessible as those from Crozes-Hermitage. “I’d happily drink it with any red meat (especially lamb), heftier vegetable dish (eggplant parm, grilled veggies), or simple charcuterie,” she says. Harding shares that wines from Crozes-Hermitage are his go-to pick for slow-cooked red meat, as well as game- based dishes and duck. Nicholson finds that wines from Crozes-Hermitage work well with grilled meats, as well as Chinese food and other Asian cuisines. “The salinity plays well into soy and other salty flavors, and the soft tannins play well against dishes that pack a little heat”.
Article : Vicki Denig
Photos : Frankly Wines & Della's
Lower East Side
Over the last 20 years, New York City’s Lower East Side neighborhood has transformed from an industrial hub to cutting-edge dining destination. A fleet of new bars and restaurants bring fresh energy to New York City’s eternally evolving wine scene, pairing stellar plates and pours with distinctly downtown style.
Article : Emily Saladino
Photo : Karissa Ong for Claud
#1 Corner Bar
From the team behind perennially packed Manhattan restaurants Altro Paradiso and Estela comes this chic bistro in the Nine Orchard, a boutique hotel in a 1912 landmark building on the Lower East In addition to a menu of bistro classics by chef Ignacio Mattos, Corner Bar has a wide-ranging, predominantly French wine list that spans traditional, cult, and experimental bottlings.
Pairing : Les Habrards, 2018, Jean- Baptiste Souillard & Au Poivre Crusted Prime Rib
Photo : @cornerbarnyc
#2 Parcelle
With its casually cool vibe, knowledgeable staff, and extraordinarily deep wine collection, this cozy Lower East Side wine shop-turned-bar is a destination for wine lovers from across New York City and beyond. Book weeks before you plan to visit to secure a seat on the chic leather couches or communal bar, where you might strike up a conversation with a nearby collector, fashion model, or fellow wine enthusiast over a glass, bottle, or magnum.
Pairing : Les Machonnières, 2018, Domaine des Entrefaux & Giant wild mushroom katsu & XO sauce
Photo : @parcellewine
#3 Skin Contact
“There is no Syrah more classic than a Northern Rhône Syrah, which this Spot on.” That’s how the wine list at this free-spirited spot describes the Thomas Finot Crozes-Hermitage on its list. The scene at this Lower East Side bar leans toward boisterous, especially on busy Friday and Saturday nights. Grab a seat at the bar to chat with amiable, approachable staffers about everything from their favorite Rhône wines to the best Stevie Wonder albums.
Pairing : Thomas Finot & Picante, Soppressata, Saucisson sec
Photo : Skin Contact
#4 Claud
Set on an unassuming stretch a few blocks south of Union Square in the East Village, this hip spot is exceedingly popular with bar and restaurant professionals and the people who try to keep up with The cellar spans 800 bottles of classic and cutting-edge wines, but sommeliers keep a more manageable 250 bottles in frequent rotation and offer 10-12 by the glass including, at press time, a 2020 Domaine des Entrefaux Crozes-Hermitage. Seating is limited, so book well in advance.
Pairing : Domaine des Entrefaux, 2020 & Wagyu bavette with maître d’hôtel butter
Photo : Karissa Ong for Claud
#5 Chambers
This slim Tribeca wine bar-restaurant is located in the space that formerly held Racine’s, another wine-centric destination. Here, the massive list includes several bottles from Crozes- Hermitage as well as established and under-the-radar labels from emerging regions worldwide. As a result, wine curious New Yorkers can taste traditional and unusual offerings accompanied by the same knowledgeable, approachable service and excellent, French-accented dishes.
Pairing : Le Rouvre, 2020, Yann Chave & Snowdance farm chicken (NY) with spinach, sherry, thyme
Photo : Kate Previte
#6 St Tropez
There’s a breezily tropical atmosphere in this West Village wine bar, and the servers are just as likely to chat with you about a recent breakup (yours or theirs) than lecture you on single-vineyard terroir. The impressive, all-French wine selection includes classic Rhône Valley Crozes-Hermitage, a beautiful pairing for dishes like the house burgers.
Pairing : Pierre Aguille, 2016, Julien Cecillon & St Tropez Burger with Black Angus beef, aged cheddar, truffle mayo
Photo : @sttropezwinebar
Jermaine Stone
Bronx-born visionary Jermaine Stone bridges the gap between fine wines and hip hop by hosting bespoke events which combine two worlds that are both deeply rooted and cosmopolitan. So New York.
On a sunny June afternoon in Manhattan, a panel of wine experts gathers in a sleek waterfront restaurant from Michelin-starred chef Jean-Georges Vongrichten. Amid the sea of navy blazers stands Jermaine Stone wearing a tracksuit, hoodie, and pristine Air Jordans. “They were dressed for business, and I was dressed for Jermaine,” says Stone, laughing. “At certain points, I felt like some people were thinking, ‘Damn. I didn’t have to wear my church clothes to this?’”
Stone is the CEO and founder of Cru Luv, an agency devoted to the ever-growing intersection of fine wine and hip hop. A native of the Bronx, Stone dreamed of becoming a rapper before he discovered a passion for wine. He was a fine-wine auctioneer and administrator for Zachy’s, a luxury wine shop and auction house, before he created Cru Luv. He’s since hosted a podcast called Wine & Hip Hop and the first-ever wine and hip hop festival in Brooklyn in 2022. He’s inspired by the ways wine and hip hop cultures and communities have evolved in tandem in and beyond New York City. “Hip hop is now 50 years old,” he says, “and deeply ingrained in all sorts of international arts scenes.” Meanwhile, many people in the fine wine world are so open and craving change.
Stone has consulted and collaborated on projects with French winemakers, and has a particular affinity for French wine. “I might be a little biased. I prefer French wine over everything,” he says. “If I’m drinking Syrah, you know where I’m going–I’m going to Crozes-Hermitage.” These wines have biographical significance, too. As a young wine professional, the first red wine Stone got excited about was Shiraz. “As my palate evolved and grew, I was able to appreciate the more nuanced flavors you get from the cooler climate [in the Rhône]. Crozes-Hermitage specifically really speak to my palate because they have that lighter body, but you’re still getting all that amazing ripe fruit.”
Article : Emily Saladino
Photo : Head Make Book
Jersey City
For decades, New York City has been composed of five boroughs: Manhattan, Brooklyn, Queens, Staten Island, and the Bronx. As housing prices increase and people from all over the world flock to NYC, a burgeoning and unofficial sixth borough emerges: Jersey City.
MADAME CLAUDE - Located in the heart of downtown Jersey City’s Hamilton Park district, Madame Claude has been a staple in the neighborhood for several years. Focused almost entirely on French wines, it’s no stranger to Crozes-Hermitage and almost always has at least three selections to choose from. Visit for a quiet, European approach to wine and don’t forget to leave with some cheeses and jam to accompany your libations!
To Drink : Pierre Gaillard, 2020
COOLVINES - Almost unbearably hip, this wine shop actually has four locations in New Jersey, with two of the largest scattered in Jersey City. Its Powerhouse location not only offers a wide selection of wines from Crozes-Hermitage but also has a café where local creatives come to work, socialize, and imbibe, while its Grove Street location offers personalized recommendations from friendly wine experts.
To Drink : Yann Chave, 2019
RIVERVIEW WINES - The Heights district of Jersey City is one of the area’s most exciting, with new businesses and entrepreneurs opening something new almost every month. Focusing almost exclusively on organic and biodynamic wine selections, this shop is one to watch for sustainably-minded Crozes-Hermitage.
To Drink : Équinoxe, Domaine des Lises (Maxime Graillot)
Article : Katie Melchior
Photos from @madameclaudwine on Instagram
